For any that have been waiting, here is the second (and final) part to my Battleboard tutorial. If this is the first post you’ve seen related to the Battleboard then please check out part one to get up to speed. 🙂
Last time we had finished painting the earth and rocky sections of the board and now we turn our attention to grass! (not that kind!)
Step 1: Once you have picked your first board you’ll need to mix up some PVA glue and water. The ratio is not an exact science but we went roughly 50-50. It should be around the consistency of milk. You’ll also need a tub of static grass from the handy scenery painting pack.
Now I would heartily recommend getting someone – buddy/wife/long suffering parent – to assist you with this part or you may end up with static grass all over your floor (and dog), like me… or you may be some kind of Shaolin scenery boss, in which case please carry on.
Step 2: Grab a nice, large sized paintbrush and we’re now ready to begin. One board at a time; start painting on the PVA glue on the earthy areas only. Try to leave a tiny bit of visible earth where the mud and rocks intersect. This will improve the overall effect at the end.
This is what your boards should look like. The watered down glue will sit and pool and shouldn’t run all over the place. If it is running then it’s too thin and you need to add more PVA to the mix.
Step 3: It is now time to add some flock/static grass. You can use any shade of grass you like for this. I went for the scorched grass rather than the nice bright green glade grass as my board will be used for more 40k than WFB games.
Carefully drop some grass from about 6 inches onto the glue portioned areas of the board – don’t worry about putting too much on because we can shake off the excess later, so pile in on!
Once you’ve reached this stage, I would go and put the kettle on and have a nice refreshing cup of tea and pat yourself on the back for a job well done 🙂
After about 15 minutes, pick up the board carefully and turn it on its side. Then tap the underside of the board to remove the excess grass. You can tap it reasonably hard as they’re quite robust but be careful because they’re not indestructible.
Also make sure you have put some newspaper or some other such material down so you can recapture the grass that falls off.
Once you’ve reached this point it would be helpful to get your extra pair of hands to assist in reclaiming the grass. In my case we just folder the paper edges up and poured the grass into a box lid.
After doing all 6 boards you will need to put them somewhere where they will not be touched or moved by anything while the PVA sets. I left mine in the spare room overnight. This is really important if you want a nice clean finish.
Step 4: TADA! After 24 hours, we are left with a nice grass laden board tile! There are still some clumps at this point but another good tap on the underside will remove them. to be honest every time I get the board out of the bag I loose a little more grass. It’s going to happen.
The skulls are very easy to do – if you’re happy with quick and simple? I drybrushed them with Ushabti Bone and and then washed them with Agrax Earthshade. When that had dried, I drybrushed them with Ushabti bone again and then lightly with Praxeti White.
That’s pretty much it. Of course you can vary from this guide wildy if you wish, it’s only meant to be a starting point. You could maybe try mixing a few different varieties of static grass together to create a different looking battlefield… or some snow? If you’re feeling creative. 🙂
Here was our first test run. I think it looks good but of course we now need to finish all the terrain and scenery to go on it! Please feel free to comment or ask questions. Always happy to help.
Thanks for reading,