Tag Archives: Warhammer

White Dwarf is changing


Unless you’ve been in a hobby hideaway recently, you’ll have noticed the chatter about White Dwarf splitting into two separate magazines – one monthly, one weekly – and the accompanying fury from some quarters.

I for one think it’s a good idea. Below is a paste from Games Workshop themselves, explaining the changes:


White Dwarf magazine goes weekly!

Saturday 1 February sees the birth of the new, weekly, White Dwarf magazine.

Saturday 1 February sees the birth of the new, monthly, Warhammer: Visions magazine.

Yes, that’s right. We’ll be launching two new magazines on the same day, Saturday 1 February.

White Dwarf, now weekly.

From Saturday 1 February, White Dwarf will be available each and every Saturday exclusively in your local Games Workshop store, Independent Stockist and at games-workshop.com

White Dwarf will contain everything that’s new and exciting in the hobby that week, from news and information on all the week’s other new releases, to new columnists, interviews, painting, modelling, game rules and much more. And the price? The same as a pot of your favourite Citadel paint.

Warhammer: Visions, now monthly.

Warhammer: Visions will be available on the first Saturday every month in your local Games Workshop store, Independent Stockist, games-workshop.com and local newsstands in the UK, Europe and Australia.

Warhammer: Visions is a completely new monthly magazine, also from the White Dwarf team. It’s unlike anything we’ve ever done before and this super high-quality visual feast weighs in at a whopping 236 pages, each and every month.

Just 17 days to go and counting.

After months of planning and hard work, we’re really excited to be able to share this news with you. We were overwhelmed by all the support and feedback you gave us last time we relaunched White Dwarf back in September 2012 (and by your emails and photos that you send us every day – please keep them coming), and we’re even more excited by what we’ve got coming up for you in 2014.

If you can’t wait for Saturday 1 February and want to know more, then your local Games Workshop store manager has more info…





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Games Day 2013 Report

Good morning,

It’s two days since I went to Games Day with @CPJohnson80 and @freexerjin, and I have finally had enough sleep to enable writing a blog post about it all!

This year the event was moved from the large expanse of the Birmingham National Exhibition Centre (NEC) into the somewhat smaller venue that is the Birmingham National Indoor Arena (NIA) – the tickets were also cut down to 4000 (and raised £5 in price).


Little Grumbles:

First impressions of the NIA are that it’s a little more hassle to get to as you have to drive into the middle of Birmingham which was fine on the way in but very traffic-heavy on the way out, so that’s not a plus point for me. I have no issue the the little price hike on the ticket, after all, the total amount of tickets were cut down by half (reportedly).

The main thing that struck me this year was the utter lack of any gaming tables at all. There were none. Games Day now has no games. 😐

I’m not sure why this decision was taken. Expense? Logistics? Who knows… they are all gone anyway. Also gone is the Scrap Demon/Kit Bash area.

The Golden Demon area and Armies on Parade were on a completely different floor and that meant exiting the main arena, going down a few flights of stairs and cramming into a dimly lit sports hall to have a look at the plethora of wonderful painting and conversion work – and there was a lot of really exceptional stuff. The space was limited, so I understand why that had to move something out of the main area but it’s a shame it was the Golden Demon stuff.

Forge World’s prices rose on the day – or the day before maybe – which was annoying as stuff was more expensive than some people were expecting. It’s only a little gripe really but it just irked me a bit.

Lastly, the eBay wankers. Those who got loads of pre-release limited number models and had them listed on eBay before lunchtime on the day at the expense of the genuine hobbyists who’d travelled to get a Fire Raptor or the Word Bearers Ashen Circle for themselves. I don’t know how Forge World or GW can really do anything to stop this and it’s certainly not their fault but it is annoying for those that miss out. I got a Ferrus Manus model and my copy of Massacre so this didn’t affect me personally but did affect some folks I know.


Good Stuff:

Forge World!

The Forge World designer stands were brilliant, as always, and the finished items on display as well as the work-in-progress stuff was excellent. We got to see Lorgar (pics below) as well as the huge Dropsite Massacre board – my photo does that no justice – and the Kharybdis Assault Claw which looked pretty much finished and has movable, magnetised claw arms. I wonder if Forge World will be using magnets in other stuff? Very interesting.

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I spoke to Forge World writers Alan Bligh and Neil Wylie at length about what would be coming up in the next books and I was delighted to hear that Nykona Sharrowkyn will get a model! He’s just too good a character not to, however he won’t get a model/rules in Extermination (Book 3), it will be a later book. We also attended the Forge World seminar where Tony Cottrell told a room full of people about what some of the upcoming releases were and about future plans. He also ran a Q+A but more about upcoming stuff in the GDUK Future Releases post.

The Golden Demon entries were simply breathtaking. Apologies for the utter lack of photos here but my phone battery was almost dead and it takes crappy pictures in poor lighting anyway. I entered Golden Demon for the second year running but as last year, failed to make it past the first cut. I had a good chat with a judge and got some useful feedback, so I will try again next year but the standard is now insanely good.

Loads of the GW writers and designers were on hand to speak to hobbyists – one of our party had a frank discussion with a certain Matt Ward! – about all aspects of collecting, painting and gaming as you would expect and the ‘Eavy Metal live displays were very interesting to watch.

I sadly missed the Black Library seminars but I heard they were very interesting and largely Horus Heresy orientated – which I would’ve liked so I’ll make an effort to go to one next year.



I think GW kind of miss the boat when it comes to showing work-in-progress stuff. We saw a little cover shot of the first Space Marine Supplemental Codex and that was about it. Forge World have seminars showing some of what’s in the pipeline and answer questions about things they are thinking about doing or have nearly finished and most of us are left foaming at the mouth, giddy with excitement and drop a load of cash on new shiny resin kits as they’re released.

GW simply don’t offer this kind of build up anymore. I’ve read lots of articles about how doing secretive ‘drops’ when a new release comes along encourages impulse purchasing on a mass scale but, for me personally, Forge World get a load more of my cash because I have an idea what’s coming and can plan my armies and purchases in advance – this is important for me because of the expense of what is a luxury hobby.

Don’t get my wrong, I love the models and background and sheer depth of the Games Workshop universe, it really does stand apart at the moment despite other companies best efforts but it’s not cheap! There are of course other good games out there but they have work to do to compete properly.

The retail queues were totally insane. If you go to GDUK14, I recommend you pre-order your stuff, especially Forge World, or get there about 3 hours early. I pre-ordered the things I wanted and spent about 45 seconds at the reservation desk but I know some people wiped 2 hours out of their Games Day experience just queuing to pay.

That’s my little mini-report for this year. I’ve also posted a list of upcoming releases as detailed by the Forge World staff from conversations with them or from the seminar.


Cheers for reading,


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Games Day 2013 – Release info

So….  Games Day is done and dusted.

Here’s the gossip..  and it’s pretty much all Forge World.


Warhammer Forge will shortly be finishing and releasing a Dreadsaurian model. I think this is part of the Monstrous Arcanum book but I could be wrong. It’s a great model though and really big! I didn’t get a picture but others did so I’m sure they’re out there.

Warhammer 40,000

The first Codex Space Marine supplement is called ‘Sentinels of Terra’ and not the White Scars as had been mooted on many forums. There is an Imperial Fist on the cover, so make of that what you will.

The Tau R’Varna Battlesuit will be coming soon, this is a Riptide variant which you’ve probably seen as it was available on pre-release at Games Day from Forge World.

The best news for all Marine players is that Forge World have rewritten Imperial Armour 2 and added all the new and current Space Marine vehicles and rules! This is at the printers now and we were told that the aim is to release it before Christmas if they can.

Horus Heresy

The next book is Extermination and this will be released in late Spring, probably in line with the Horus Heresy weekender. The next 3 books after this – they will be released in trilogies – will be Prospero, Signus and Calth.

Prospero will feature Space Wolves, Thousand Sons, Sisters of Silence, Custodes and Imperial Army.

Signus will feature Blood Angels and Daemons but interestingly, Dark Angels as well.

Calth with feature Word Bearers, Ultramarines, Traitor Imperial Army and will expand the Titan Legions.

There was no mention of the battles on Mars. I’m really hoping that’s something that will get it’s own book.

New models coming soon include:

Sicaran Venator – Sicaran chassis but has a Neutron laser.

Mechanicum Thralls – Rank and file troops

Mechanicum Myrmidons – Heavy support troops, bigger than Terminators.

Mk2B Land Raider Achilles

Space Marine Legion Basilisk.

Kharybdis Assault Claw (pictured)

Iron Hands – Medusan Immortals

Night Lords – Night Raptor Marines

Death Guard – Grave Warden Terminators (these looked amazing!)

Lorgar Aurelian (pictured)



Now, we only saw a work-in-progress of Horus (picture below) but he looks very good. Tony Cottrell said the aim is at least 3 Primarchs a year. Some will have multiple variants as they change.

After a long chat with Alan Bligh, I was told that he’s working on ‘Legion Zero’. This is a bridge between the Thunder Warriors and the Astartes. Now, I couldn’t prise anything else from him but keep an eye out for more on this in the future.

Also, the Dark Angels have SIX wings. The Ravenwing is one and the Deathwing don’t exist in the Heresy…..  so that’s a few to fill!


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Thanks for reading,



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Tutorial: Realm of Battle Board – Part Two

Good evening!

For any that have been waiting, here is the second (and final) part to my Battleboard tutorial. If this is the first post you’ve seen related to the Battleboard then please check out part one to get up to speed. 🙂

Last time we had finished painting the earth and rocky sections of the board and now we turn our attention to grass! (not that kind!)

Step 1: Once you have picked your first board you’ll need to mix up some PVA glue and water. The ratio is not an exact science but we went roughly 50-50. It should be around the consistency of milk. You’ll also need a tub of static grass from the handy scenery painting pack.


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Now I would heartily recommend getting someone – buddy/wife/long suffering parent – to assist you with this part or you may end up with static grass all over your floor (and dog), like me…  or you may be some kind of Shaolin scenery boss, in which case please carry on.

Step 2: Grab a nice, large sized paintbrush and we’re now ready to begin. One board at a time; start painting on the PVA glue on the earthy areas only. Try to leave a tiny bit of visible earth where the mud and rocks intersect. This will improve the overall effect at the end.


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This is what your boards should look like. The watered down glue will sit and pool and shouldn’t run all over the place. If it is running then it’s too thin and you need to add more PVA to the mix.

Step 3: It is now time to add some flock/static grass. You can use any shade of grass you like for this. I went for the scorched grass rather than the nice bright green glade grass as my board will be used for more 40k than WFB games.

Carefully drop some grass from about 6 inches onto the glue portioned areas of the board – don’t worry about putting too much on because we can shake off the excess later, so pile in on!


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Once you’ve reached this stage, I would go and put the kettle on and have a nice refreshing cup of tea and pat yourself on the back for a job well done 🙂

After about 15 minutes, pick up the board carefully and turn it on its side. Then tap the underside of the board to remove the excess grass. You can tap it reasonably hard as they’re quite robust but be careful because they’re not indestructible.

Also make sure you have put some newspaper or some other such material down so you can recapture the grass that falls off.


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Once you’ve reached this point it would be helpful to get your extra pair of hands to assist in reclaiming the grass. In my case we just folder the paper edges up and poured the grass into a box lid.

After doing all 6 boards you will need to put them somewhere where they will not be touched or moved by anything while the PVA sets. I left mine in the spare room overnight. This is really important if you want a nice clean finish.

Step 4: TADA! After 24 hours, we are left with a nice grass laden board tile! There are still some clumps at this point but another good tap on the underside will remove them. to be honest every time I get the board out of the bag I loose a little more grass. It’s going to happen.


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The skulls are very easy to do – if you’re happy with quick and simple? I drybrushed them with Ushabti Bone and and then washed them with Agrax Earthshade. When that had dried, I drybrushed them with Ushabti bone again and then lightly with Praxeti White.


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That’s pretty much it. Of course you can vary from this guide wildy if you wish, it’s only meant to be a starting point. You could maybe try mixing a few different varieties of static grass together to create a different looking battlefield…  or some snow? If you’re feeling creative. 🙂


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Here was our first test run. I think it looks good but of course we now need to finish all the terrain and scenery to go on it! Please feel free to comment or ask questions. Always happy to help.


Thanks for reading,


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Tutorial: Realm of Battle Board – Part One


If you’ve been following on Twitter you’ll know that we’ve had a Realm of Battle board in the works for a while and as it’s now finished, we thought it was time we published a tutorial on how we painted it. I’m going to split it into two parts for sanity but hopefully you’ll find it useful for your own boards.

Step 1:  Once unpacked and inspected for any damage, proceed to undercoat the board. We neglected to photograph this but to be honest, it’s just black spray paint. Now… I won’t lie, I used two and a half cans of GW Chaos Black undercoat! It is, hands down, my most expensive use of spray, ever. 🙂

Step2: I was lucky enough to get one of this GW Scenery Painting Packs from eBay for about £10 I think (RRP is about £25 I believe), so I’ve balanced out the pain of the undercoating costs! These packs actually aren’t too bad. They contain more PVA than you need, way more grass than you need, way more brown paint and ocre paint than you need and a nice big paint brush. Now, I’m not saying it’s worth £25 but it’s certainly worth the £10 I paid!


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When the undercoat had completely dried, I got an old plastic tub, my brown paint and a decent sized piece of cardboard. I poured a little brown paint into the tub and dabbed the brush into it enough so that the bottom half of the bristles were nicely coated but not saturated with paint.

Then I wiped most of that paint off on the cardboard – much like you would do with kitchen roll if you were drybrushing a miniature –  and then proceeded to paint the main earthy parts of the board. I deliberated left the rocky outcrops black at this stage. Now this is very similar to drybrushing but there is no magic formula I can really explain, but moderate pressure and fast sweeps was how I was trying to play it.


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Step 3: Once this layer of brown had dried completely, I repeated this process with the Ocre colour that came in set. This time I used slightly less paint and less pressure as it’s supposed to be a highlight.


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Step 4: Now it’s time to deal with the rocky parts! For this I go a slightly smaller brush – from the shed – but one that was bigger than the GW large drybrush and would happily take more of a battering. The colour was Eshin Grey and it was painted on in the same way as the brown but I was a little more liberal with the paint this time.


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Steps 5 & 6: The next steps are to highlight those areas and for this I used the same brush as used for the Eshin Grey for the first highlight – Dawnstone – and then used a GW Large Drybrush to get the edges using Administratum Grey. It’s important to use less paint and be more subtle here. It will really lift these areas on the board if you don’t overcook it.


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Thanks very much for reading, I hope you find some of this useful and please feel free to question or comment as you wish.

That’s it for Part One! I’ll cover flocking and skulls in Part Two!




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